Paris, Take 2

Today marked a very important day in any woman’s life. It was the day we went shopping in Paris. You laugh, but we’re serious. First stop was the original Chanel. Yeah. The original. The very first Chanel store EVER. We found it, drooled outside the window for a moment, then went inside to find the perfect shade of red lipstick to buy, because let’s be honest, what else could we afford? Besides, what’s more Parisian than a killer red lip?! It’s the most expensive piece of makeup either of us had ever purchased, but worth it. Chanel was very close to the main shopping strip in Paris called the Champ-Elysee. Besides all the stores, it is most recognized by the famous monument at the top of the strip: the Arc de Triomphe. Every person and every store was SO chic, it was quite amazing. If there’s one thing we learned, it’s that French people dress up LITERALLY 24/7; definitely the best dressed country we’ve been to. 

We spent the night celebrating Juliette’s 21st birthday at a bar in Paris. It was especially nice because a lot of the people Amanda met in Australia were there as well, it was a mini reunion! That’s the great thing about travelling, you meet SO MANY people and you all have so much in common! You really do meet some friends for life, and since we are all travelers by nature, we will usually crash on each others couches at one point or another. It’s an amazing lifestyle, which none of us will ever give up, that I know for certain. 

On our last full day in Paris, our first stop was the Catacombs. Even getting there early, we waited for THREE HOURS to get inside. This was like the Sedlec Ossuary times 10. There are 2 kilometers of accessible underground passageways FILLED with human remains, mainly plague and war victims. In all, we read that there are the remains of roughly SIX MILLION humans. All underneath the streets of Paris. Incredible. We also made a stop at the Lock Bridge (and yes, we added a lock) and stopped at a market to grab some supplies to make a “thank you” dinner. The rest of the evening was spent in the living room booking the rest of our trip. It was an extremely expensive and stressful couple of hours, but at least it’s done. Now we don’t have to worry about anything else, we can just enjoy our time! Brussels Tomorrow!

C’est Magnifique!!

9am came WAY too soon. But sleep was sleep and it was more than we had gotten in a while, so we grudgingly climbed out of bed. Why 9am you ask? Because we had a very long itinerary to get through and the first thing on the list was the Louvre, which you had to get to before 10:30am or there was no way you will be able to see it that day–yeah, the line gets that long. We grabbed croissants on the way, as you do, and made our way to the famous glass pyramids. Luck was on our side that morning and we were fortunate enough to just walk right in without any lines. perfect. We grabbed a map of the place and ran straight to the Mona Lisa. She was actually a lot smaller than either of us expected, and obviously behind glass, but they had no problems with the public taking photos (and selfies), which was a nice change from most art museums with such famous artwork. The louvre itself was MASSIVE and the building alone was stunning, one could probably spend an entire day there (and I’m sure some have), however we were on a time crunch, so we spent about 2 hours running through exhibits such as the Greek gods/goddesses, the Middle Ages, the renaissance, and old Italian portraits before exiting through the gardens and walking through the streets of Paris, seeing as much as we could on our way to…you guessed it…the Eiffel Tower! You can’t really comprehend it’s size until you come face to face with it in real life. Let us tell you, the Eiffel Tower is HUGE and much more intricately detailed than either of us really expected. There’s a very good reason it’s so iconic. Originally we were thinking about taking a ride to the top, but the lines were MASSIVE and it was pretty expensive, plus, what’s a view of Paris without the Eiffel Tower in it?! So we decided to opt out and cross the street by some sort of war memorial with fountains for a nice view of the whole tower. Our next stop was Notre Damn and subsequently the bookstore Shakespeare and Company since it turned out to be right next door in the Saint Michel shopping area. For those who are unaware, the ORIGINAL Shakespeare and Company bookstore was a tiny bookstore located in Paris, where famous writers such as Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, and Ezra Pound used to hangout. That store closed, but George Whitman opened a second store, which is the one we went to (it has been featured in several movies). It was JAM PACKED with every type of book you could possibly think of, and the original reading room upstairs was complete with a desk, an old typewriter, and even a cat lounging on a nearby chair. It was like stepping back in time; really cool to see. 

We then grabbed a quick crepe (because, it’s Paris) at a cafe next door while we used the free WIFI to google the entrance to the Catacombs. It ended up being pretty close, but it closed soon, so we sprinted over, hoping to make it in….alas the line was WAY too long, so we just put it on the list for another day! We had dinner with Juliette and her roommate while we waited for more friends to get in…and Amanda even made a special (crazy) trip into the Red Light District…ALONE….at 10pm to see the world famous original Moulin Rouge. PS. it was awesome. Definitely worth the trip out there!

In terms of sights we saw, here is a small list of things we saw while running around in ONE DAY. There’s a TON to see, but luckily it’s VERY do-able by foot (or metro)

-Louvre

-National Assembly

-several gardens (Luxembourg, Jardin des Tuileries, etc)

-Grand Palace (and Petit Palace)

-many many many Bridges

-Musee de Orsay

-Eiffel Tower

-Notre Dame

-Saint Michel

-Moulin Rouge/Red Light District

Je Deteste….

WELL. that was the single worst leg of transportation we’ve had this far. Night buses are never fun, but we had the unfortunate luck of sitting right in front of quite the loudest snorer we’ve ever encountered. No seriously. Imagine you are trying to sleep next to the speakers at Ultra. This guy was probably louder and he slept (and consequently snored) FOR ALL 14 HOURS OF THIS RIDE. we’re honestly not sure how he never once managed to wake himself up….we are convinced some kind of heavy pharmaceuticals were involved. Nobody else on the bus managed to get even 5 minutes of sleep and we finally arrived in Paris completely over-exhausted. let me tell you right now, trying to figure out a brand new metro station in a foreign country when you’re running off literally zero sleep and essentially no food is pretty awful. Luckily we were staying with a friend, Juliette, a girl who I had met while I was living in Australia, so we knew we were going to a quiet apartment with a good shower. Cause enough to figure it out. Juliette met us outside the station closest to her house and showed us inside. We ended up going out and seeing the Luxembourg Gardens and going to eat at a lovely French burger place before settling in early to get some much needed sleep in conclusion. if you happen to be a snorer, and I know you know who you are…..please do us all a favor and either a. get tested for sleep apnea (and get a machine) b. get some nose strips or c. choose another means of transportation so we don’t have to sit through 14 very long hours listening to the battle happening in your air passages. PLEASE. for the love of god. let us sleep in peace.

No Hablas Espagnol….

So our good luck with hostels came to a roaring halt upon getting to Barcelona. In our Starbucks booking frenzy back in Munich we booked the cheapest hostel that had good reviews.
WARNING: ALWAYS DO YOUR RESEARCH
The reviews seemed great, it had a pool, a fitness center, and it boasted being the “most modern hostel in Barcelona”
well.
they were a hostel in Barcelona. that’s about all that could be said. We were told that they do not offer pool or fitness center access anymore (despite still having signs advertising them everywhere), our key cards regularly just stopped working which required a trip to the lobby to reactivate (which wouldn’t be so bad, if we weren’t on the 6th floor), and the thing that killed us was that to be able to use the wifi you HAD to “like” them on Facebook as well as “check in” every day, where they described themselves as a “Hostel and Homeless Shelter” I KID YOU NOT. They had conveniently left the latter portion of that off of hostelworld.com. wonderful. We also were the lucky ones who got put on a floor with a school group of 19 young and VERY LOUD boys, ages 13-16 who INSISTED on kicking a soccer ball with full force down the hallway and yelling at the top of their lungs at literally all hours of the night. At least the rooms were clean, so I guess there’s that…

Now as for actual Barcelona, we were pretty excited that it’s known for it’s beaches. The first full day, however, we had to wait for our room to be cleaned so we decided to check out the aquarium which was Mediterranean species themed, an awesome experience since we don’t get to see these a lot of these species back home. Getting there obviously turned into much more of a fear than we planned, but to be fair it was our first day and every metro system is different so you kind of have to get lost to figure your way around, it really is the most effective way. We did eventually locate it and they had a giant tank you could walk through with tiger sharks, several types of rays, and some of the weirdest (and coolest) looking fish I’ve ever seen! There was even an option to be able to get in the tank with scuba gear on and swim with the tiger sharks, which was pretty tempting, but neither of us had 300 euro to spare…next time!

We left the aquarium and walked down the boardwalk walking through little local markets and ended up on the Las Ramblas street; a street dedicated to food and local vendor shopping. After wandering around until about 4pm, we decided we should probably head back so we could get into a real room. The closest station to our hostel was named “Clot” which is supposed to be pronounced “cloat” but it was appropriately located on the Red Line, and being scientists, all we could think of was “Blood Clot”.

For whatever reason, Spanish was harder for us than any other language we’ve come across so far, so we used this naming mechanism with many of the stops. We had the Frodo stop, the Dressage stop, and “Catalunya” of course turned into the “Catalina Wine Mixer” stop. Hey, whatever works.

We went back to Las Ramblas for dinner and found a pretty cheap place with great food, explored some more, and headed back to the Blood Clot.

After a month of summer without any beach time (minus the 2 hours in Cinque Terre) we were stoked to hit the beach all day the next day. There are 5 main beaches only a couple metro stops from the Blood Clot so we researched, found the best one (Barceloneta), and headed out. As expected (especially for a 90 degree day) it was pretty packed with a good mix of tourists and locals. We found a nice spot close to the water, laid our towels out and finally caught some rays. In between our long snooze sessions we swam, got some ice cream, and laughed at the insane number of topless women. Seriously, they were everywhere, and nobody else seemed to even notice! I guess we’d rather that than completely naked old men, but it was still quite the culture shock.

We stayed for hours, soaking in all the sun we could listening to music…and the wandering salesmen selling everything from “fresh” mojitos/sangria, to wrap dresses, massages, and tapestries. It was actually kind of annoying having to turn someone down almost every minute, but again, everyone there seemed to just accept it. After we felt sufficiently burned, which, even after sunscreen, we were, we stopped at one of the beach restaurants for some lunch and most definitely a margarita.

The service industry in Europe is also unlike America where you have to constantly check in on your patrons, and everyone is in a hurry. It’s quite the opposite over here. Servers pretty much leave you alone unless you specifically get their attention and everything is done at a much slower pace, so it’s completely normal to spend several hours at a restaurant, even for a “quick” lunch. Certainly a big change from what we’re used to.

The following day was spent trying to see as much of Barcelona as humanly possible, and I have to say, we did quite well. First stop: Guell Park. Located at the top of Barcelona up a rather large hill sat the huge park, full of Gaudi-designed houses, paths, and overall park scenery. This particular architect (who we later found out essentially designed most of Barcelona) was a big fan of mosaics, evident in the buildings, benches, and the giant mosaic lizard at the entrance to the park. All the detailed mosaic work really gave vibrant color throughout Barcelona, which was really pretty, and definitely unique to this area.

We walked around for a while, but it was above 90 out and we had a lot more to see, so we jumped back on the metro and made our way to the most famous building in Barcelona: the Sagrada Familia. It was undergoing reconstruction so some parts were covered, but it didn’t take away from how incredibly massive this cathedral is. like many of the old EUROPEAN cathedrals are, it was built Gothic Style, so it was very reminiscent of Prague Castle, and much like P.C. it towers over absolutely everything.

From there, we made our way to “Dressage” station right above Las Ramblas, where Casa Batlló was located (another famous building designed by Gaudi). The outside was bursting with color yet structurally immediately reminded us of a skeleton. We weren’t surprised to learn that the local name for this building is “Casa des les Osso” or “House of Bones”. We obviously really like all things bones, so it was a cool stop for us. From there we walked up 3 blocks to Casa Mila, unfortunately also undergoing reconstruction.

Our last day included one last trip to the beach for some much needed rays before getting on a night bus to PARIS! Probably a good thing too, because as we were leaving, the FCB football (soccer) team was losing pretty badly…normally they’re a good team so you can only imagine how upset everyone was….

*update: they did lose. bady. 5-1 exactly…so it’s a very good thing we left when we did! *

Frankfurt Friends!

8:00am came way too soon, but we managed to get ourselves on the correct bus headed towards Frankfurt. I (Amanda) have a college friend who relocated there several months prior with his German girlfriend, and we were lucky enough that they offered their couch bed to us for a couple nights! Big shoutout and thank you to Brandon and Lea!!
Our bus was a 7 hour journey, but we had an unexpected half hour break at a rest stop about halfway though, which broke the trip up a bit and made it easier to handle. We arrived at the Frankfurt airport around 3pm to a legitimate bomb threat (because, our luck) and after getting through that an jumping around from hotspot to hotspot, managed to find Brandon who took us back to his ADORABLE apartment in the heart of the city. We got settled in, took showers, and made use of their wifi to book the next pieces of our trip…..which include spontaneously renting an Audi for a couple of days! Eek! Needless to say, we went to bed pretty excited.

The next morning, we got up early, got dressed, and with printer out detailed directions from Lea, headed out by ourselves to find Frankensteins Castle! This trip included not one, but FOUR separate transfers to a pretty remote German town, so with our track record you can imagine our nervousness. Nevertheless, we found the town! the castle is hidden in the mountains, so we found the base and started our ascent up expecting to see SOME sort of directional signage as we got closer.

As you can probably guess, we had no such luck. There was NOTHING, which resulted in us wandering aimlessly in the woods for a little while. Eventually we came across some logging trails and spied some humans on a path a little ways through the trees. We quickly went “off-roading” to catch up to them and ask for help. They seemed a bit confused, as one should be if you’re taking a quiet stroll in the woods with your spouse and suddenly two crazy American girls rush out of the woods speaking sub-par German words, but you know we had to do what we had to do, and luckily they showed us the way.

The castle itself was mainly in ruins but it was still an awesome sight to see! Plus, not many people actually find it, so that was a huge accomplishment in and of itself. There was, however, one large turret still standing, which you could climb up and had an amazing view of all the little towns below! I guess if you’re doing less than morally ethic experiments on human cadavers, this would definitely be the place to do it. But it led to the discovery of Prussian Blue, so there’s always that!

After exploring every inch of the castle that we could, we made the trek back down, and thankfully made it all the way back to Brandon’s in one piece. His friend Philip from near Stuttgart was also visiting for the night so the five of us walked down to the river and over the bridge to grab some dinner and drinks on the water. Brandon and Lea were great hosts! They showed us around Frankfurt, told us some history, what buildings were which, and some cool things to do around town. We tried the “drink of Frankfurt” called Apfelwine, similar to hard cider except a little less sweet. As it got dark outside, we had quite the view of the Frankfurt city skyline which includes the tallest building in Europe, which, isn’t actually tall in comparison to some American cities such as New York, but was definitely a rare sight in Europe.

We got home later that evening after a great night with wonderful friends. We even decided that we were going to take Philip home to Stuttgart the next day, providing everything works out smoothly with the car!

Our last morning consisted of doing some laundry, taking a nice shower, and taking a ride on the 2nd longest escalator in Germany (Lea’s favorite attraction) before heading to the airport with Philip to pick up our car! I’m so glad we went, Frankfurt is an awesome city, and there’s nothing like reconnecting with friends in exciting places! We can’t thank Brandon and Lea enough for inviting us in and showing us around! Fingers crossed that we get our Audi!

Spreken zee Deutch?

When we woke up this morning it was pouring rain. Prague was obviously sad that we were leaving…and so were we! It was also Adams last day with us, he had to get to the airport around noon and our bus to Berlin wasn’t until 6pm so we stored our bags at the hostel and decided to hit up the Tim Burton exhibit in Old Town Square before we parted ways. Aside from the rather rude lady at the counter, and the fact we couldn’t take any photos (but you know we snuck one anyway), the exhibit itself was awesome. It showcased quite a large amount of “behind the scenes” of Tim Burtons work. If you haven’t guessed by now, we’re both into the dark and twisty stuff, so it should be no surprise that Tim Burton is one of our absolute favorites. He certainly lived up to our expectations too, there were literally hundreds of sketches drawn with different mediums on everything from easel paper to cocktail napkins, each one a masterpiece of it’s own. There were quick concepts, storyboards, and even a personal letter to Johnny Depp about certain lines in one of the movies! It was absolutely worth every penny.

After that it was time for Adam to leave, so we went back, grabbed our bags and said our goodbyes. We were able to kill a couple of hours with the free WIFI at Starbucks before making our way to the bus station for our bus to Berlin! We travelled through the company Eurolines; it was really cheap and it was really nice! Plenty of leg room, outlets and free water/crackers! I fell asleep pretty shorty after leaving (if that tells you anything about the comfort level) but apparently it was a pretty cool ride with lots to see (hey when you need sleep, you sleep right?). The whole journey took less than 5 hours, which was nice, and we somehow navigated our way through the German Metro (with the help of google maps) to our hostel: St. Christopher’s. We checked in around 11:30pm and were greeted with a large and bustling bar and restaurant located right downstairs, this is definitely a handy amenity.

We were hoping that the rain would stop by the time we woke up in the morning, but sadly it was just as miserable. Not wanting to waste the day, we made a couple friends (shoutout to Mary and Cesar from Argentina and James from Seattle) during breakfast and all braved the rain together to walk down to the Pergamon Museum on “Museum Island” –a place where several different museums each with their own themes are located. As always, there was some seriously amazing architecture and we were able to see a lot of artifacts from the Byzantine Empire and Ancient Greece, which was pretty cool. I even found a statue of Artemis (which, for those who don’t know me, is who I named my cat after: Artemis the Greek Goddess of the Hunt) After we became museum-ed out, trust me, it’s a thing, we grabbed lunch at the hostel’s restaurant and braved the rain yet again to run to the mall for a few essentials. By that evening everyone kind of realized the weather wasn’t getting any better, so the downstairs bar was pretty hoppin. We met an awesome duo (hey Sev and Travis!) who were doing the opposite trip we were…we had a great night which even included a very late night run to the Doner Kebob place down the street for our very first…and very last currywurst experience. Apparently it’s a thing here in Germany, essentially a hotdog covered in ketchup and curry. Needless to say, it’s not really our thing….but at least we tried, right?

The next day Steph wasn’t feeling that well, so while she rested, I left with my friend Mike to do some Berlin exploring. He has been here before, so luckily it was like having a personal tour guide. We first headed to the famous Brandenburg Gates, or the ” gates to Berlin” and right around the corner was the Jewish Holocaust Memorial and Museum which we entered. The memorial consisted of 2000+ large grey blocks, each one slightly different. Some were the height of a coffee table and some towered 5 feet above our heads, all laid out in a grid like pattern, meant to remember and recognize all the individual victims of that horrible time. The museum, located underneath the memorial was also quite well done. The designers split it into several rooms, each with a theme. They had one room where they laid out several letters and notes from some of the victims, some of which were thrown outside of the transport trains. Another room focused on a number of specific families, and described what happened to each member of the family, which emphasized how families were torn apart, it was heartbreaking to read. The last room was meant to be a powerful one. It was just a black room where every 10 seconds or so, a single name would show up on the wall and a recording played a sentence or two telling who they were and what happened to them. A small sign in the corner of the room indicated that it would take over 7 years to hear all the names listed.

Almost ironically. the spot were Hitler died was about 50 feet from the memorial location. It used to be a barracks where Hitler retreated to when he figured out he was going to lose, but since that time it was sealed, collapsed, and instead is nothing but an ordinary parking lot, only indicated by a sign in the corner.

Across the street was an entrance to Berlin’s version of Central Park, so we walked through it, stopping at various monuments and statues until we reached the Victory Column. Once we realized that you could climb up to the top, you bet your butt we climbed all 282 steps to the very top (yes, I did count every step) and had an awesome birds eye view of Berlin. I HIGHLY recommend it! By the time we made it down, it was getting late, and pretty cold so we met up with Steph and indulged ourselves in a very famous Beergarden: the Hofbrauhaus where they serve beer by the liter. yes. that’s correct. I had a liter-sized mug of beer, along with perhaps the single best sirloin steak we’ve EVER had, no exaggeration. It was also the biggest restaurant I’ve ever been to, and our waiter informed us at capacity it sits 1400–and this one is about 1/3 the size of the original Hofbrau located in Munich! I can’t even imagine what the chefs and bartenders have to deal with….but we had a great time. Definitely worth every penny.

We got back late, met more friends (whaddup Colin and Tom?!) because what else do you do at hostels, and decided to all hit the town together the next night! Woohoo!

We got up fairly early the next morning so we could take Steph to he gates and the memorial before we all went on the “Third Reich Tour” which was a 3+ hour walking tour that brought us through the history of the Third Reich as it relates to Berlin. It was extremely informative and it was also an awesome way to see Berlin! We saw the foundation of the SS and Gestapo headquarters, fragments of the Berlin Wall and many war memorials along with walking the city streets. Our tour guide was an awesome guy who never made you feel overwhelmed with the amount of information we were receiving.

After the tour we made a BADLY NEEDED trip to the laundromat. Our clothes could have probably walked themselves there at that point, so it was pretty bad. Oh the joys of backpacking 🙂
CLEAN CLOTHES ARE SUCH A NICE LUXURY

We got back with enough time to grab a quick bite, change and meet our friends downstairs to hit the town! Steph ended up opting out so me and the four boys headed out, attempting to walk to the “it club” Tressor. After getting lost and waiting in a very long line, we ended up getting denied. Well, I didn’t get denied, but the boys did because they were boys and I was NOT about to go in without them, so all they way back we went. What a bust. #denied…
guess there’s a first for everything!

Because we can’t have anything go completely smoothly, there was a rather unfortunate computing error that double booked our beds so we ended up having to change rooms the next morning. If you’ve ever backpacked before, you know how annoying it is to pack up your bag, so we got pretty frustrated. They ended up compig our rooms though, so I guess it worked itself out. It was also our last full day in Berlin and we wanted to see separate things, so we split. Steph walked the city streets and found a TON of awesome cafés and markets, while James, Mike and I headed to the East Side Gallery to check out the artwork painted on the Berlin Wall. While there, we noticed a sign for a craft brew festival that happened to be going on that day so after asking about 20 different people, finally managed to locate it! What could be better than attending a Craft Beer Festival In Germany?! I was pretty excited to say the least. We wandered through the tents and tried as many as we possibly
could, from whites to wheats, lagers to ales, and even some high percentage IPAs. My favorite was called the “Holy Shit Ale” boasting a rockin 10.2%, which is more than Heady Topper (go Vermont!)! The hot sun wasn’t helping with the fact that we were sampling a significant amount of craft beers, so after a couple hours we decided we had better get home while we still had some sense about us, smart, eh? don’t worry, we made it back without any trouble, met back up with steph, grabbed some dinner and headed off to bed since we have an 8am bus to catch.

We are all in agreement, Berlin is definitely one of our favorite spots!

The Foot Bone’s Connected to the Heel Bone..

It’s BONE DAY! Today is the day that we visit the Sedlec Ossuary, located in Kutna Hora, about an hour journey outside Prague. We got on a tiny train and came to a tiny town where we miraculously successfully navigated our way to the church. Ok there were clear signs, but still. For those who don’t know, it’s an ossuary in the basement of a Roman Church where a half-blind monk arranged the human remains of 40,000-70,000 into monuments. Comprising of mainly plague victims, there simply wasn’t enough room for each to have their own grave, so as a way to honor them he created this “Bone Church”. Inside was spectacular (and maybe creepy for a “normal person). There were 4 separate giant pyramids made completely of skulls and other bones, a giant very intricate crest, giant goblets and skull and crossbones streamers decorating the walls. The most impressive and definitely the main focal piece was the chandelier. This huge masterpiece hung from the middle of the ceiling and is said to contain at least one of every bone in the human body. Just the artistry of this man is incredible, it was certainly the Most unique structure I’ve ever seen and I loved every second of it! The fact that he was half blind only increases it’s impressiveness. It was thrilling to be able to see.

The rest of the day was not nearly as exciting, we had dinner and since it was our last night in Prague we had plans to go out…..but ended up falling asleep instead. Thrilling, I know, but we were exhausted and if there’s one thing we’ve learned, traveling is tiring so if there’s a chance to rest in a comfortable place for a while…you take it…it’s off to Berlin in the morning!

Czech Us Out!

Sleeping in airports: Take 2…Venice Airport.

After running around Venice for the afternoon, we decided once again to save money by getting to the airport that evening and sleeping there (we had SUCH an early flight, we didn’t want to risk it)…however when we got there, we were told that we could sleep there….but we couldn’t enter the gate. ….excuse me? So we spent the night on a concrete floor. You heard me. They closed the entire airport (lights off and everything) and we slept ON A CONCRETE FLOOR. let me tell you…concrete floors are not comfortable. Not to mention they decided 2am was a WONDERFUL time to do maintenance, and spent several hours literally banging large metal poles with hammers.

needless to say, none of us really slept at all.

However, after what seemed like an eternity, the sun finally rose and we were able to check in (some attendants took pity on us and gave us our tickets without making us pay 20 euro each for not previously printing out our tickets—I mean we slept on the floor for crying out loud, you think we have access to a printer?!) We got inside, grabbed a very quick breakfast then boarded our hot pink and purple plane (Wizz Air) to Prague! Luckily for us, we obviously spoke English, so the flight attendants put us in the Emergency Exit rows (with extra leg room, which was great for Adam) so we could open the doors if there were an emergency. Hey, for the extra leg space, I’m ok with that responsibility. Fortunately, there were no problems and we had a quick 1 hour and 10 minute flight in which we flew over (and had a spectacular view of) the Dolamites! We got ushered rather quickly through Customs (strange?), grabbed our bags, and made our way to the currency exchange for some Czech koruns (“crowns”). Turns out their monetary system is crazy…100 koruns = less than $5 USD…which means everything is several hundred dollars, where in reality it’s actually pretty cheap. Hopefully we’ll get the hang of it before we leave (but we do have a full week to do so)….

Bus 119, Tram 20, about 50 different locals, and one large hill later, we arrived at our hostel: The Little Quarter. Little was right. It looked like a little hole in the wall…good thing we had googled it previously so we knew what to look for, or we would have passed right by it. Once you step inside, however, it is actually quite nice. We are in a 10 mixed-bed suite style–5 beds per room, with it’s own hallway and bathroom. The Wifi is a little spotty up in the rooms but works perfectly in the hallways and downstairs in the lobby. With our plane being so early and the slight time change, it wasn’t even 1pm by the time we were all checked in, so we decided to go exploring.

It turns out that our hostel is in a fantastic location….literally minutes from the Charles Bridge and 2 streets in front of the incredible Prague Castle. Since that site takes hours alone, we decided to cross the bridge. It is HUGE with giant towers on either end and statues of various Saints and Kings (and their stories) looming over both edges. It was built to connect Mala Strata (and Prague Castle) with the “Old Town.” From the bridge you can look out over the Vltava river to the many historic architecturally BEAUTIFUL buildings. There are all sorts of vendors and performers lining both sides of the bridge, everything from homemade jewelry to caricatures. Once you cross the bridge into Old Prague, you are greeted by a giant Church. From there we made our way to Old Town Square, making a pit stop in a medieval torture museum (something Steph was perhaps a little too excited to see), and moving on to see the world-famous Astronomical Clock. Seriously amazing. From there we stopped and found a place to eat…beer is literally cheaper than water…and went back to the hostel for an early bedtime. We were only technically in Prague for less than a day, and each of us was already in love with it. We all agreed that it was one of the most beautiful cities we’ve ever been to.

 

Day 2 started with the buffet breakfast in the hostel. Unfortunately, it wasn’t that great (definitely not worth 2 euro) but it would do, and now we know. We cleaned up, took some MUCH NEEDED showers and walked up the hill to our main destination: Prague Castle. The gates were enormous and once we got our tickets and stepped inside the grounds, we were immediately spellbound. We decided to save St. Vitus Cathedral for last, and our tickets included 10 different stops around the area, so we started at a place called Golden Lane. It included a row of little shops on the bottom and displays of armor/weapons used through all the years on the second floor. AWESOME. spears, swords, shields, YOU NAME IT WE SAW IT. At the end of Golden Lane, we found ourselves in the old torture chamber which had many of the torture devices we saw in the museum. To say Steph was excited is a complete understatement. As for me, everything I looked at gave me the hee-bee gee-bees. Those contraptions man….I’d probably rather just die and get it over with than be trapped in ANY of those. ICK. From there, we moved on to the Basilica of Saint George and other various exhibits. We saw ancient crowns, robes, jewelry, floor plans of the ever-changing castle grounds, and even some REAL SKELETONS that were found in the burial sites behind some of the buildings. Totally creepy, but totally cool. At some point in our explorations, we heard the sound of trumpets blaring outside. When we went to investigate, we found ourselves watching some sort of celebration. Originally we thought it might be the “changing of the guards” but it was too late in the afternoon for that, so to be completely honest, we still have no idea what we actually watched…but it was cool! There were police on motorcycles doing a kind of synchronized…dance? Following them were a group of uniformed guards marching and twirling their guns in yet another routine, all to the music of the band. This must have gone on for at least 45 minutes until we decided it was time for us to see the cathedral.

Obviously it’s big. You can see it from essentially everywhere in the city…but BOY IS IT BIG ON THE INSIDE!!! Also completely beautiful. All along the sides were the largest stained glass windows I’ve ever seen, each telling it’s own vivid story. There were giant places of worship to multiple Saints and everything inside was incredibly ornate. It was truly a grand masterpiece. We spent a while there, but when we realized that we were over 4 hours deep into our Prague Castle adventure, decided it was time to leave and find our second destination of the day: The Lennon Wall.

Luckily we found it without much difficulty and looked at all the art displayed in front of us. It was bright, with seemingly every color splashed onto the wall in various pictures and quotes. Having no Sharpie with us, we couldn’t add our names, but it’s definitely something I want to do before I leave. It was a healing and inspiring visit for me. I’ve never seen so much positivity in one place before.

The rest of the day was spent grabbing some dinner at a restaurant down the street from our hostel and heading back for a nice quiet, restful evening. Except of course we then decided to go out on the town. We first found a rather creepy absinthe store and had a “Harry Potter” cocktail (I mean, we had to) before making our way down to Prague’s very own version of Coyote Ugly, appropriately named “Coyote”. After some particularly watered-down drinks (the unfortunate problems of all being bartenders ourselves is that we know how the drinks should be made…and would almost rather do it ourselves) we decided to head home. If you haven’t guessed by now, we got lost on the way back. Surprise Surprise. Luckily it was an easy fix since we just made our way to the river and from there could find our way back to the Charles Bridge.

The next day wasn’t particularly eventful. We decided to try to get some laundry done….after about a 2 hour walk all the way into “New Prague” and still no laundromat…we gave up, found a nice cafe to eat some lunch in, and headed back. Later in the evening we got adventurous and decided to try out the Ice Bar we had passed on our way home the previous night. Turns out it was the bottom floor of a 5 floor club called Karlovy Lazne. We were given insulating ponchos and mittens and we’re essentially locked inside for 13 minutes (ummmm fire hazard?) where we enjoyed a drink in an ice cube glass. It was a fun experience but we were glad when the doors finally opened. We made sure to visit the rest of the floors, each having their own designated theme (R&B, oldies, electronic, pop). Insanity. Every floor was completely decked out in it’s respective theme and some even had gogo dancers. Say whaaaat? Go Prague!

Our last day in Prague before our Polish adventure began with visiting the old Jewish Quarter located in a small section of town. During Nazi time, after evacuating all the Jews from the area, the Nazis wanted to keep these particular buildings standing with “relics” they gathered from other Jewish towns all over Europe so they could create a “museum of an extinct species” which is completely horrifying. Obviously they never succeeded (thank god) so the buildings were turned into monuments and museums and the names of thousands of victims are written inside on the walls of the synagogue. Even the tiny cemetery had hundreds of tombstones all on top of one another. Things like this are so important to see, especially since we’re about to get on a bus to Auschwitz. The whole tour didn’t last too long and we were starving by the time we left so we decided to break down and go to the Hard Rock Cafe in Prague.

I should probably mention that when you order, for instance, a burger in Prague. Your plate comes back with a burger. You have to order all the sides separately, which is obviously not what we’re used to in America. So when I say “break down” I mean it was more expensive but the portions were HUGE compared to what we had been eating and it comes with all the sides. It was delicious and so worth it.
By the time we finished and got home (running through a rainstorm) it was time to get to the train station, which we, of course, got lost trying to find. In our defense it was SERIOUSLY raining at this point and it was dark outside. So we grabbed the next cab we saw and made it to the dirtiest looking night train you could possibly think of. Oh the adventures.

“There and back again, and back again then once more just for good measure”- an Auschwitz Tale: Part 1

Let me introduce you to the concept behind this blog title.

I think that I have mentioned previously that we suck at European public transport… just to confirm, that is absolutely correct.

We had booked our trip to Osweicem (Auschwitz) Poland through Czech transport in Prague. We made an attempt to book online, but the site does not offer an email confirmation or anything of the like. Instead, it asks you if you would like the tickets mailed to you, to come in for pick up, or have them delivered. The cost of delivery was 20 euro so we looked online  to see where the office was located. To our luck, it was about 500 feet up the street from us! We made our way over there, checked in and to our luck the same train we attempted to book online was still available! It cost us roughly 103 euro a piece for a round-trip ticket to Osweicem with total travel time 14 hours. The only inexpensive trains/ways of travel to Osweicem was by night train something none of us have ever experienced. I booked online, blindly, a 6 person couchette…whatever that means, right? The departure of the train was 10:30 PM from Prague’s central train station. We asked all three of the staff at the Hostel if it was easy to get there. We received directions to it via metro, tram and by foot. We decided to use the tram mainly because we had no idea where the entrance to the metro was..literally no where in sight. When purchasing our tram tickets, we debated by a 30 min pass or a 90 min pass. I made the decision to get the 90 because we suck at traveling…well…

We boarded tram number 9 and were told to get off at Djvedka and board tram 22 to hlavní nádraží. the main station. Easy enough, right? The trams here are pretty high tech. They have boards that flash what train you are on, the route it goes from beginning to end and which stop is coming up next. Pretty fool proof. Once we arrived at the stop, we got off. We were told to wait on the same side of the street for the next tram we were to catch. So we did. The next tram came and we got on. We were told hlavní nádraží was just a couple stops down..after about 6 stops later we decided that we perhaps gotten on the wrong train ($@#^& cotton headed ninny muggins!!). We were pretty far outside of the city at this point. We decided to get off at the next stop and try to turn around.

Did I mention it was POURING?

We had brought our rain coats and a pack cover for the bag thank god, but this rain was similar to the rain in Forest Gump- ” Little bitty stingin’ rain… and big ol’ fat rain. Rain that flew in sideways. And sometimes rain even seemed to come straight up from underneath.” We walked on to the next closest station going back towards Prague. We tried to ask someone if it was going to the main station but no one spoke any English. Thank goodness we had written down where we were going, we pointed the name out to people and they either gave us a weirdly confused look, didn’t answer, or said that this stop was not the right one. We had left ourselves 2 hours to get to a destination that was only 30min from our hostel. We had taken so long on the tram, we were running out of time. After being throughly soaked, I saw a taxi approaching and made the impromptu decision to jump out and hail it. Lucky for us, the driver spoke English and knew exactly the place we wanted to go. The taxis in Prague consist of BMW’s and Audi’s..what did we catch? a Minivan. The total cost was 193 Koruns (less than 10 USD) but we made it to the station.

Once we got into the station, finding our train was not difficult. There were only 5 tracks and they all clearly displayed where there were going and their train number. We found our train and got on. A constant worry for us is that we are not on the right train (gee, I wonder why). We asked the conductor in our train if we were in fact correct, he nodded and showed us to our room.

DUN, DUN, DUN

We had been joking all day about whether Adam (6’4 240lbs) would fit on the couchette..the answer was..wait for it…NOPE. They were so small that I (5’8) had my head touching one and and my feet against the other, flexed..not pointed. The room couldn’t have been more than 6ft in width about 9ft in height. The couchettes were boards covered in a cheap velvet wannabe fabric that pulled at your clothes. There were two sheets and a single pillowcase. The pillow was definitely used over and over with no wash or decontamination whatsoever- at least judging by the stains all over mine…The cabin smelled old and was HOT. Not just in a temperature way, but in a “this-must-have-been-a-tomb-sealed-for-200-years” kind of way. We immediately opened the window- no air flow..heellpppppp. We were so tired we spend the next several minuets laughing and video recording Adams attempts at getting comfortable. He above all couldn’t take the heat. Eventually we got settled, prayed that three more passengers were not going to join us and the train took off. Riding with the window down was effective for cooling, however every time we passed another train it was SO loud Amanda and I would scream and jump about 1 ft( the alloted amount of space) so we eventually had to close the window and sweat Adam out.

Arrival at Osweicem

The conductor, or the guy who maintains the cabin, whichever he is, took our tickets when we boarded. He gives them back when you depart so at 4:45 AM when we arrived he throws open the door yelling “GOOD MORNING, HERE ARE YOUR TICKETS” he was so unexpected i just about fell out of my “bed”. We scurried to get our things. He had asked us in advance if we wanted to go to Krakow instead because he wasn’t sure if Osweicem station would be open that early. We had said no because that would involve us then taking an almost 2 hour bus ride back. Just extra expenses we don’t need. Upon arrival we immediately wished we had said yes. It was the most desolate station we had ever seen. Sticking with our decision we departed and walked towards the entrance. Getting closer and closer to the sliding doors,  we all got nervous and prayed they would open. Standing just before them, palms sweating, they OPENED. YESS!!!

Inside, there was no one. There were no outlets, no vendors, no tables, no signs, no people, no currency exchange, only a few functioning lights and 4 slabs of granite to sit at. Auschwitz didn’t open until 8am and we were starving. There were no bathrooms but more importantly no coffee.

I can not tell you how uncomfortable it is to sit on a granite slab for 3 hours.

We then met our Asian friend Christi. Christi is from Hong Kong, and she has her shit together. She had already found a way to exchange her euros to Koruns and figured out which directions to walk from the station to Auschwitz. We asked if we could join her. She was a very pleasant and jovial personality. We all headed out, on the 2 kilometer walk from the station to the destination we have all been waiting to see for a very long time.

Auschwitz deserves the utmost respect and therefore will be included in a more serious post completely dedicated to it following this one.

Stay Tuned